I haven’t had brandade since I used to be an adolescent in Paris—I keep in mind having to double verify that the ocean of what seemed like mashed potatoes served in an unlimited casserole dish was my order. I’ve carried fond reminiscences of that burbling dish since, and so I used to be delighted to see it on the appetizer menu at Alice Blue.
With roots in France, Italy and Spain, brandade is usually an emulsion of salt cod and olive oil and solely typically bulked with the addition of potatoes. Fortunately, Alice Blue’s rendition leans French, with a base of buttery mashed potatoes flecked with bits of fish for a really delicate piscine taste, elevated by crispy slabs of garlic-rubbed toast on which we daubed the silky combination.
Alice Blue is the newly reworked model of Shade, sister restaurant to Cover in Montrose. Restaurateur and proprietor Claire Smith turned the brand new restaurant round in simply three and a half brief weeks. Like Cover, Alice Blue emits a barely upscale however approachable neighborhood vibe: you’ll discover diners clad in work apparel alongside patrons in shorts and polos. Apps and salads are all underneath $15, pastas are underneath $20, or you’ll be able to splurge for barely pricier entrees within the mid-twenties vary.
Alice Blue’s inside provides off the air of a classy seashore home.
Photograph by Troy Fields
Whereas Shade had an open format with tons of white area, Alice Blue reuses a number of the similar parts to create a totally distinct space that provides off the air of a classy seashore home Vertical picket slats part off the entrance of the area, outfitted with a full bar and centered round a comfortable lounge space with low tables and a sofa—house to every day joyful hours. Cubicles line each side of the room and partitions are adorned with seashore-impressed artwork and geometric prints. The restaurant is awash in shades of blue, though the namesake Alice Blue—a favourite shade of Alice Roosevelt Longworth, who turned a trend icon as soon as her father was elected president—is simply be present in one set of ceiling lamps.
With a kitchen run by Kent Domas and Jason Vaughn, Alice Blue payments itself as having trendy bistro delicacies based mostly on basic European method. The menu does clearly take inspiration from all types of European roots: housemade pasta, Mediterranean-esque grilled eggplant, a snapper-topped model of bouillabaisse, the French seafood stew.
The cavatelli was tender and chewy and tossed in a light tomato sauce with melting dollops of torn burrata.
Photograph by Troy Fields
For probably the most half, they’re good renditions of their namesake. We liked the comforting cavatelli, tender and chewy and tossed in a light tomato sauce with melting dollops of torn burrata. So tender was the housemade pasta that we might overlook the marginally clashing notes of the arugula and nasturtium strewn excessive.
The bouillabaisse arrived partially eclipsed by a dramatic baton of ciabatta dotted with an inventive splotch of rouille that thrums with purple pepper, a thick bread-based mostly sauce meant to brighten the…